Free Underwear Pattern Tutorial | At First Blush Patterns
The Be Bashful Bikini was just released a little over a week ago and it had a great response! As you may already know, Be Bashful is a free underwear pattern available if you subscribe to this blog. For those of you who may be dabbling into lingerie for the first time using this free underwear pattern I wanted to create a step-by-step photo tutorial to help you sew up Be Bashful. If you prefer to watch me make Be Bashful click HERE.
Here we go! 🙂
Step 1: Sandwich the Bikini Back between the two lining pieces at the crotch. Make sure the right side of main fabric lining is facing the right side of the Bikini Back and the right side of the interior lining fabric is facing the wrong side of the Bikini Back.Use a zigzag stitch or overlock to sew the three pieces together.
Step 2: Match the right side of the Bikini Front with the right side of the main lining piece at the crotch seam.Twist the interior lining piece so the right side lines up with the wrong side of the Bikini Front at the crotch seam.Pin in place then sew. Your underwear will have a clean seam on the front and the back once you untwist.
Step 3: Pin the right sides of the front and back side seams together then stitch.
Step 4:Measure the waistband opening and the leg openings then subtract 2” from each.Cut your elastic based on these measurements.You will have three pieces of elastic.
Step 5: Overlap the raw edges of the waistband elastic by about 1/2” then stitch.Repeat this on the elastic for each leg opening.
Step 6: Divide the waistband four ways and mark each with a pin.Line up the seam of the waistband with either side seam of the bikini; keep right sides together and the scallop edges of the elastic towards the body of the garment.Stretch the elastic so that the pins match at both side seams and center front and center back.Pin then use a zigzag stitch while making sure to stretch the elastic to match the length of the fabric as you sew.Repeat for both leg openings.
Step 7:Flip the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric so the scallop edge now points away from the body of the garment. Next, zigzag stitch around the perimeter of the waistband and both leg openings on the right side.
Step 8:Finish and trim off any excess threads.
Don’t forget to share your bashful panties on social media!Tag @atfirstblushpatterns and use #bebashfulbikini #atfirstblushpatterns
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To download your free underwear pattern subscribe to this blog today!
You can also watch my YouTube video tutorial HERE.
I’m very excited to announce the official release of my first pattern the Be Bashful Bikini pattern!
What is Be Bashful?
A pair of beautiful panties that feature a bikini cut, low-rise waistline with semi bottom coverage. They are sexy with just the right amount of modesty to wear as a comfortable everyday pair of underwear. Plus, they are FREE when you subscribe to this blog!
Who is Be Bashful for?
For anyone who wants a pair of undies that have support and ease but still make you feel like you have a sexy secret. 😉
Why do you want it?
You want Be Bashful because it’s okay for your lingerie to be a little timid and not show itself off but when they are ready you don’t mind if someone takes a little peek! 😉
Where is it and How do you get it?
It’s right here! Just subscribe to Sewing Unaffiliated and a link will be emailed to you to download. When you subscribe you will not only get a free pattern but updates on the latest pattern releases too! Your privacy is important to me and I will not share your information with anyone. Enter your email in the side bar under “SUBSCRIBE VIA EMAIL” and click “FOLLOW” if you cannot wait any longer to download your Be Bashful panties!
Thank you for joining the At First Blush Patterns Community!
Finally, thank you for all those who have supported my teeny little sewing corner on the net. Whether you read this blog or not I still am grateful for you and all the people that make this such a wonderful community. 🙂
Isn’t funny how you can look at something and be totally mystified by and it then try it out and realize you absolutely love it! That is how I felt about bras. They always seemed insurmountable to me (no pun intended haha) until I tried making a few on the simpler side and really fell in love with the process. So much so that I bought books on how to construct my own bras which led me to the Bare Essentials bra pattern.
As a result, I started spending all my free minutes on reading said books, and blogs and tutorials or just admiring everyone’s handmade bras online. I’m passionate about sewing but for some reason bras excite me more than anything.
These got me started on a serious bra-making journey. For my first “serious” bra I used the Bare Essentials bra pattern. I measured myself just as instructed and low and behold I have been wearing the wrong bra size my whole life. Go figure…
No wonder the straps always hurt or the band popped up in the back or didn’t lay correctly against my chest. I’m sure you ladies know exactly what I am talking about. Going to the store and getting measured is awkward and a bit confusing. You have to rely on someone who may not have the proper training to even measure you correctly. Then buy what fits best even if it isn’t great. Let’s not forget to mention the exorbitant prices on a necessary piece of clothing that doesn’t even fit right! More reasons to make your own bras right?
To get the right fit you must be braless for at least one measurement (this is optional of course). Going braless is a bit awkward to do with a stranger so make sure you really understand how to do it properly yourself. Or you ask for the help of someone you are very comfortable with who will do a good job. Both Bare Essentials and the Beverly Johnson course go over in detail how to measure yourself. Bare Essentials even talks about how to measure yourself after having a baby which is really helpful for many women.
As for my measurements, I measured at a US 32 for the band and “C” for the cup. I typically wear a 34C which clearly means my band is too big. I used the Bare Essentials guide as I thought that would be more conducive to sewing up the Bare Essentials bra pattern.
On to my fabric… I had leftover fabrics from other projects but I really wanted to experiment a bit more. Off I went with my dear friend to do a little shopping downtown. I will say that things got a bit overwhelming as I couldn’t find the right sizes and matching colors of straps and elastics. I did pick up this beautiful floral mesh fabric and some deep blue picot elastic and light blue strap elastic. Not to mention, I found the underwire, underwire channeling and hook and eye pieces as well.
Luckily, I realized that I could match these with some leftover viscose fabric from my Araine Slip from Seamwork magazine. I also had some tulle that I could use as a stabilizer for the front band since the viscose has some stretch.
Here is how it went:
I made copies from the back of the book then cut out my Bare Essentials bra pattern and laid out my fabric/patterns as the pattern pieces directed. I used fabric sheers but honestly I needed to use a rotary cutter. After pressing my pieces and allowing them to cool I used a fabric glue stick to attach the stabilizer pieces. I then sewed the two cup pieces together, trimmed the seams (a small detail scissor would have been great for this) and added stay tape for added comfort and stability.
Next, I attached the picot elastic then started my work on the band which I call this “band practice” haha. Moving on, I edgestitched the center front, and front side band pieces. I didn’t need to edgestitch the back side bands so I sewed them on and reinforced the seam. Then I sewed the picot elastic to the bottom edge of the band.
Next, I attached the cup to the band but to my dismay the cup was much bigger than the actual band (as you can see in the photo the seam line hits the top of the band when it should be about an inch lower). I thought this was odd and double checked that I cut out the right pattern and I had. I decided I would just alter the pattern a bit so that band would be flush with the top of the cup and went ahead and sewed it on.
This would have worked but once I tried it on the cup was much too big and the bra would not have been the least bit wearable. Maybe the underwire will fix this I thought! LOL so I decided to add it and guess what? It still didn’t work out SO… in comes the seam ripper, wasted thread and wasted time. (Howard looking at the wasted thread with dismay).
My next course of action was to cut out a cup in muslin fabric on the bias just to be sure that I cut out the pattern correctly. Fingers crossed because I highly doubt it is an error with the Bare Essentials bra pattern itself. As it turns out I did, I just screwed up the fabric. Upon further investigation there are two reasons why my cup was too big:
I didn’t use a rotary cutter AND
There were too many wrinkles in my fabric that ended up distorting the final size once re-pressed (is that a word in sewing? Haha).
Moving forward, I used the new muslin cup as a guide to trim off the excess fabric for my big ol’ cups. This worked out quite well and viola the cup actually fit the band the way it was supposed to! More importantly it actually fit me! Check my Bare Essentials bra cup:
Off I went to sew on the underwire, insert the underwire and add on the picot elastic. There was still one more problem though… The band was too long! Ugh… not again.
I thought I cut it out correctly. No, no I did not for the same reasons as above. Out comes a RTW bra for my guide, my rotary cutter, a lot more patience and some problem-solving skills. 😉
Once that was measured and cut I was able to attach the last piece of picot elastic to the back. This piece of elastic is intentionally longer so you can create a loop for the strap ring to attach to the band. I made the straps and attached them (be careful not to twist the strap before you sew the elastic loop to the band). Finally, I attached the hook and eye pieces. My first “serious” bra was now complete and boy did I learn SO MUCH! 🙂
But how did the Bare Essentials bra pattern fit…?
Well the bra actually fits quite nicely but I’m a bit picky and of course I can see all the mistakes as any typical sewist would in my position. My biggest complaint is I am not a fan of the horizontal seam line over the apex of the bust on the cup. It could be that I’m just not used to wearing this style but I don’t feel it suits me. Otherwise, I would like to use a stiffer fabric for the front band next time rather than a fabric with 20% stretch backed with a stabilizer. The stabilizer did its job but the stretch fabric ripples since it can’t stretch. I don’t like how that looks though it lays properly against the body.
Finally, now that I’ve sewn this I will know what to look out for and have a better handle on the precision needed for lingerie sewing. I’m not sure I will sew this exact Bare Essentials bra pattern again but I’d love to experiment with others in the book.
Please whatever you do use a rotary cutter (18mm or 28mm for detail cuts) and a cutting mat and press your fabric before you do!
Also, bra making takes time so be patient with yourself. You won’t regret it. 🙂
For your cup and front band DO NOT use a fabric with more than 20% stretch – this is imperative as the size will be distorted and you will not be happy with your bra
Use a stabilizer fabric if you have any stretch on your front band fabric (of course the stretch should still be no more than 20%)
Your back band should have no more than a 50% stretch – any more will distort your bra
If your machine has the option use a 3-step zigzag stitch – it allows for the best amount of stretch which is perfect for lingerie
Be careful not to twist your straps before sewing them on
Take it slow and have fun most of all! 🙂
Be sure to check me out on Pinterest – click on the pin below!
The Kwik Sew 3167 pattern has been sitting on my sewing table for quite some time now. I was originally planning on sewing these with my girlfriends but we were only able to get through one and we haven’t been able to reschedule another session. Luckily, due to a recent long weekend and lots of sewjo I finally completed my lingerie set.
Kwik Sew 3167 Review:
The Kwik Sew 3167 Misses Lingerie Lace Bra Camisole and Panties pattern comes with two camisole versions and four panty versions. The camisole can be sewn in all lace or with stretch edging lace. There is an option for boy-cut panties that can be sewn in all lace or with a stretch edging lace. They can also be sewn in two thong styles with either a lace back or string back.
I sewed up version B for the camisole and version C for the panties all in lace.
One major modification I made was to use narrower stretch lace at 6″ for the panties as I could not find many colors I liked in the 8″ width the pattern called for but ultimately it worked out very well. I just had to adjust the pattern slightly as you can see HERE:
Optional: If you trace your pattern you will need tracing paper (I use medical pattern paper), markers, and a ruler.
I purchased my materials from the Downtown Los Angeles Fabric District
I started with the panties because they are extremely simple. You just sew one seam and secure the cotton lining. It literally takes less than 10 minutes. Talk about a satisfying sew!
I moved onto the bra cups which is also one seam down the middle- you just need to be sure you don’t mix up the inner cup and the outer cup. They look very similar. After you secure the two together at the midpoint you sew two baste stitches along the bottom edge of the bra cups. You then pull the loose threads on each side so the cups tighten or scrunch up evenly and fit between the notches on the camisole band. You simply sew the cups on making sure to align the centerfront and notches then you sew the back seam and remove the baste stitches.
Your next step is to make the straps and sew them on. This part was difficult the first time around to be quite honest. After sewing up the straps they were still inside out and we struggled to turn them right side out without ripping the fabric. Luckily the manual shows you how to turn it right side out using a bobby pin and a small cut in the fabric. See the handy photo directions. This was a life saver and made it so easy the second time around! After you just make sure to measure the straps to fit your frame and attached them at the notch points.
There you have it! A very simple camisole set that you can complete in an afternoon. 🙂
My straps ended being slightly longer so I had to re-adjust them which wasn’t too bad
I also sewed one side of the lace on the wrong side. I didn’t notice it until sometime after I finished sewing it. It’s very subtle luckily.