I have been slowly putting together a work wardrobe but I had yet to add pants to my collection.I saw several cute versions of the Sew Over It Ultimate Trouser on Instagram so I thought I would give it a try.
The Low Down
The Ultimate Trouser is meant to be simple pattern for advanced beginners.There are only four pattern pieces and an invisible zipper.It is a slim-fitting trouser that hits the ankle although you can make it shorter or longer depending on your taste.
Your choice of woven cotton, corduroy, wool crepe, or denim
9” invisible zipper
The Ultimate Trouser is meant to be sewn up pretty quickly.I was intending on sewing this up over the week before I had major surgery but life had other plans.Instead I sewed this up over several weeks as I wasn’t physically capable of sewing for a good portion of November.
It was a pretty simple pattern and the directions were just adequate. Based on the measurements I sewed this up in a UK size 10 – this ended up being way too small for me to my surprise.I ended up having to undo the center and side seams and use the seam allowance to make the appropriate adjustment.This also threw off my invisible zipper installation which did not turn out so well.I also chose fabric based on the recommendation which means there was no stretch so even though they fit when I sit down my body is very constricted by the fabric.One source of disappointment was the pant hem.I need to work on my technique or something because they truly give away that they are handmade.They also do not taper below the calf to the ankle as nicely as all the images on their website which just makes it feel like a standard men’s trouser to me.
All in all they look nice on the hanger and they look okay on but they are not nice to wear.I made a few style adjustments in my photos so that they are wearable but I’m not really sure when I’ll be able to wear these as I can’t imagine wearing these for hours at work.
I’m not sure if I will give these another try but I think I would like to use fabric that has a little stretch instead.I definitely wish they would list an appropriate stretch fabric in their recommended fabrics. It also really bothers me that they do not taper correctly.
My invisible zipper isn’t invisible enough
Double or even triple check your measurements
Leave enough seam allowance in case you have to make adjustments
Try a fabric with some stretch for a more comfortable fit
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The Kwik Sew 3167 pattern has been sitting on my sewing table for quite some time now. I was originally planning on sewing these with my girlfriends but we were only able to get through one and we haven’t been able to reschedule another session. Luckily, due to a recent long weekend and lots of sewjo I finally completed my lingerie set.
Kwik Sew 3167 Review:
The Kwik Sew 3167 Misses Lingerie Lace Bra Camisole and Panties pattern comes with two camisole versions and four panty versions. The camisole can be sewn in all lace or with stretch edging lace. There is an option for boy-cut panties that can be sewn in all lace or with a stretch edging lace. They can also be sewn in two thong styles with either a lace back or string back.
I sewed up version B for the camisole and version C for the panties all in lace.
One major modification I made was to use narrower stretch lace at 6″ for the panties as I could not find many colors I liked in the 8″ width the pattern called for but ultimately it worked out very well. I just had to adjust the pattern slightly as you can see HERE:
Optional: If you trace your pattern you will need tracing paper (I use medical pattern paper), markers, and a ruler.
I purchased my materials from the Downtown Los Angeles Fabric District
I started with the panties because they are extremely simple. You just sew one seam and secure the cotton lining. It literally takes less than 10 minutes. Talk about a satisfying sew!
I moved onto the bra cups which is also one seam down the middle- you just need to be sure you don’t mix up the inner cup and the outer cup. They look very similar. After you secure the two together at the midpoint you sew two baste stitches along the bottom edge of the bra cups. You then pull the loose threads on each side so the cups tighten or scrunch up evenly and fit between the notches on the camisole band. You simply sew the cups on making sure to align the centerfront and notches then you sew the back seam and remove the baste stitches.
Your next step is to make the straps and sew them on. This part was difficult the first time around to be quite honest. After sewing up the straps they were still inside out and we struggled to turn them right side out without ripping the fabric. Luckily the manual shows you how to turn it right side out using a bobby pin and a small cut in the fabric. See the handy photo directions. This was a life saver and made it so easy the second time around! After you just make sure to measure the straps to fit your frame and attached them at the notch points.
There you have it! A very simple camisole set that you can complete in an afternoon. 🙂
My straps ended being slightly longer so I had to re-adjust them which wasn’t too bad
I also sewed one side of the lace on the wrong side. I didn’t notice it until sometime after I finished sewing it. It’s very subtle luckily.